Remove Air Bubbles From Brake Lines

I didn't take any pictures today, but I should have.  There are a couple of small (1" or less) air bubbles that have developed in the brake lines.  We got down the oil pump can and filled it with brake fluid.  I used a large syringe to a piece of tubing and used this apparatus to draw the brake fluid from the reservoir in the engine compartment.  I attached the tubing from the oil pump to the right brake caliper bleeder valve, opened the valve and began pumping.  I was able to push the bubbles out of the right brake system.  Everything seems to be fine on the right side.  I attached the tubing to the left brake caliper and opened the bleeder valve.  I began pumping and the bubbles began to move and then disappeared.  The bubbles in the left system moved to the co-pilot left master cylinder  and entered the cylinder.  We stopped and waited.  Slowly the bubble began to come back out of the cylinder.  We tried again.  The same thing happened.  Frustrated we decided to call it a day.

Baggage Upholstery Panel and New Fuel Vent

Today I reworked the right strap I attached to the baggage bulkhead panel for the installation of the bulkhead upholstery panel.  I removed the small section of the panel that is behind the fuel tank.  The modification is to allow access to the tail cone without removing the fuel tank which must be done to remove the full sized panel.  Because I installed a screw to attach the strap to the stationary part of the panel I would have to remove the tank to remove the screw in the strap which defeats the purpose of the removable section of the access panel.  I connected the panels together and drilled out the rivet attaching the strap to the removable section of the access panel.  I installed a nutplate in the access panel so that screw can be removed and the removable part of the panel can be taken out.  I reinstalled the whole panel and then put the upholstered panel in place.  I was able to attach it with the fasteners provided.

I drilled a hole in the upholstered panel for the new fuel tank vent line.  I also drilled a hole through the bulkhead and installed a snap bushing.  I put the tank back into the airplane and then proceeded to make the tubing section which goes from the tank fitting through the bulkhead.  It took 3-times to make a tube that fits correctly.  The first tube I made according to the drawings and it was too short to reach the fitting on the fuel tank.  I made another tube and after I clamped it into the flaring tool I dropped the tool and badly kinked the tube.  The third attempt was a success.  I have a piece of tubing bent to the correct configuration with a flared fitting on the right end.  The other end passes through the bulkhead.  I will need to slot the upholstered panel so I can slide it into place because once the tubing is installed it cannot be removed from passing through the bulkhead.  Now I need to make the tubing pieces which are installed behind the bulkhead to vent the tank through the bottom of the fuselage.

Baggage Bulkhead Upholstery

Today I spent a few hours working on the baggage bulkhead upholstery attachment.  I decided to put four of the five screws to attach the upholstery panel to the bulkhead along the bottom part of the panel.  Because the panel attaches to the flat of the bulkhead and also the corrugated access panel to the tailcone area I decided to put in some attachment straps.  The straps go between 2-of the corrugations in 2-places.  First I attached the tailcone access panel to the rear bulkhead.  I cut some straps out of some scrap material and bent them to fit the angle of the corrugations.  I drilled and clecoed the strap to the left side of the access panel.

I then began working on the strap for the right side of the panel.  I cut and bent the strap to fit the panel.  I drilled, clecoed and then riveted the right strap in place.  After riveting the right strap I realized the strap was riveted to the both stationary and permanent parts of the panel. I will not be able to remove the panel if the strap is riveted to the permanent portion the remains in place.  Accordingly I drilled out the rivet and installed a nutplate so the strap can be removed with the access panel.  I had previously drilled the upholstered panel for the 5-attachment screws and had transferred the location of the holes onto the straps and the surrounding bulkhead.

I then proceeded to install nutplates on the straps.  After attaching the nutplates to the straps I drilled and installed nutplates on the flat bulkhead panels.  Because holding the upholstered panel to the bulkhead is not a structural challenge I opted to use an unorthodox method of installing the nutplates.  I drilled a ¼" hole for the center of each nutplate.  I also drilled the holes in the ears of the nutplates to #30.  

I then attached the nutplates to the forward side of the bulkhead with the body of the nutplates through the ¼" holes.  All 3-of these nutplates are installed with LP-3 rivets.  Because the upholstery panel will be going over the corrugated panel and will not be laying flat I decided it was not necessary to have the nutplates on the other side of the bulkhead or attach them with flush head rivets.  At this point I began to reinstall the removable portion of the access panel and then realized the with the tank in place I will not be able to remove the screw attaching the lower part of the right strap to the permanent portion of the bulkhead cover.  What an idiot.  Tomorrow I will drill out the other rivet attaching the strap to the removable portion of the access panel and install a nutplate there also.  That way I can remove the panel without removing the tank.  

Before leaving today I riveted the nutplates back onto the attachment points of the fuel tank.  

Tomorrow will be a new day and I will once again work on the bulkhead, the upholstery panel and see if I can finally get it right.  I am also working on a method of reinforcing the panel to make the parts lineup correctly and present a flat panel.  Right now the panel sort of bends in when it is screwed in place.

Fuel Tank Vent

Today I did some work towards the installation of the new fuel tank vent system.  I removed the right turtle deck.  I also checked on the Pro-Seal installed a couple of days ago.  It seems to be curing just fine.  All of the rivets have been set.  When I install the sender plate on the forward end of the tank I will make sure all of the rivet heads have been filled with Pro-Seal.  I did a test fit of the baggage area upholstery.  The vinyl covered part the installs above the fuel tank.  I marked the location for the ½" diameter hole that will be drilled through the upholstered bulkhead cover and the bulkhead.  

I then decided to cash-it-in for the day. 

I covered the cockpit area with some plastic sheeting to keep the drips out.

Fuel Tank Modifications Continue

Today Tim went with me to the hangar.  We worked on the fuel tank together.  We mixed up a batch of Pro-Seal and started installing some of the modification parts and pieces.  First we installed the new vent fitting at the rear of the tank. It was a challenge to get the fitting into the hole along with Pro-seal and then get a retaining nut to tighten.  I was able to get it on and it looks good from the top and from the inside.

Next we tackled the installation of the reinforcement plates in the forward corners.  I clecoed the plates in place and then we began to install the Cherry Max rivets in the right front corner.  What a mess it made.  We then installed the plate in the left front corner.  We installed the Cherry Max rivets and then the 3-machine screws and nuts.  We also replaced all of the blind rivets along the bottom and edges of the tank.

All of the rivets and fasteners are installed with Pro-Seal.  The last thing we did was install the Moller fuel gauge in the top of the tank.  I will let it cure for a couple of days before I do a final inside cleaning and install the sender plate on the forward end.  After I install the sender plate and let the Pro-Seal cure for a few days I will retest for leaks.  My next efforts will be to fabricate and install the vent plumbing system and the upholstery on the baggage compartment bulkhead.

Fuel Tank Mod Continue

Today I continued to work on the fuel tank.  I brought a ½" chisel from my shop to help remove the Pro-Seal from the forward corners inside of the fuel tank.  It worked rather well.  With the excess Pro-Seal removed I was able to cleco the reinforcement plates to the tank corners.  I clecoed the right corner plate to the tank and drilled the required #30 holes.  I then moved the plate to the inside of the tank and final drilled the #19 holes.  Because the mandrel was still inside one of the rivets one of the holes is elongated.  I will need to fill the hole with plenty of Pro-Seal when I set the rivets.  I then clecoed the left corner plate in place inside of the tank.  I am now ready to rivet these plates in place and install new rivets in the additional drilled out locations.

I riveted the nutplates to the Moller gauge reinforcing ring. After the tank mods are complete I will need to reprime and repaint the forward side of the tank.  I will also need to do something about the upholstery cover which goes over the top of the tank.  I will need to cut a hole for the Moller fuel gauge and a hole and a slot for the new vent line.  I think I will contact FlightLine Interiors and see if I can send the tank cover to them after I have cut the holes and slot and see if they can sew a trim on them.  I will also need to modify the rear bulkhead cover to make it possible to remove it with the tank and new vent line installed.  I think a hole and a slot in the bulkhead cover will be in order also.  

I used a ScotchBrite wheel on my angle grinder to buff the forward end of the tank and the sender plate so they are ready to be Pro-Sealed in place.  I should have the tank reassembled in the next few days.

Fuel Tank, Stabilator Tips and Stuff

Today I worked on several things.  I took the fuel tank back out to the hangar.  I also did a couple of other things.  I discovered that the switch I was able to get from OTTO is not going to work.  It needs a power source to illuminate the green light on the switch.  I suppose I could get someone to help me tap into a power source but instead I went to Standard Electronics Supply and purchased an ON/OFF rocker switch.  I installed it in the fuel pump power line and it works just great.  I will mount it in the instrument panel below the ELT switch after I have my DAR inspection and certification.  For now it is installed in the line and is under the map box so the system works like it is supposed to.  To turn off the electric fuel pump you must pull the fuse.  That is per Van's design.  So, if you need to power up the electrical system, in order to not run the electric fuel pump you must pull the fuse.  After the inspection I will be able to turn the pump on or off from the instrument panel.  I also framed the airshow poster I took down the other day to install the white board.  I had a gold colored frame I had purchased years ago.  I went to Rueles and purchased a piece of glass a some red matt board.  While at the hangar I put it together.  I need some picture hanging wire and I will be able to hang it in the hangar.  Maybe I can do so tomorrow.

After that I tackled the fuel tank.  I used my holesaw to make a hole for the Moller fuel gauge.  After cutting the hole I used the reinforcing ring to layout the screw holes.  I drilled and then deburred all of the holes.  I also drilled a hole for the new fuel tank vent. 

I used my shop vac top clean the debris from inside and outside the tank.  I then began drilling out the rivets in preparation for installing the forward lower corner tank reinforcement plates called out in the fuel tank service notice.  It is a real challenge to get the rivets drilled our correctly.  If the mandrel is still in the rivet it doesn't drill very well.  These are solid back blind rivets so the mandrels can't be punched out very easily.  So far I have been able to get them out.  Now the challenge is removing the Pre-Seal from the inside corners of the tank.  I really gooped them up when I built the tank.  Now I am paying the price for doings such a good job.

 I taped a couple of popsicle sticks together and attempted to make a scraper to remove the Pro-Seal.  It didn't work too well.  I will try bringing a narrow chisel tomorrow and see if that works better.  I have most of the Pre-Seal out of the right front corner, but I have not even started on the left front corner yet.  

I turned my attention to the stabilator tips.  I finalized the layout and drilling of the left tip.  I bent the tabs on the right tip bracket and attached it to the stabilator.  I then test fit the right tip.  It fits pretty well.

I went through the same layout procedure on the right tip because it seemed to work so well on the left tip.  I put tape around the stabilator and marked the centerline of the holes in the tabs onto the tape.  I then put tape around the tip and slid it onto the bracket.  I transferred the marks from the stabilator to the tip.  I then determined the location of the holes and marked them on the layout lines.  I drilled the holes in the tip and installed it on the bracket with clecoes.  I am impressed with how well the tips fit on both sides.  I am planning to have the tips painted with the Maroon color.  I will also have the wing tips painted Maroon so they wings and stabilator are similar.  That is all for today.  I will be back tomorrow.

Tank Modification and Stabilator Tips

Today I purchased a white board to install at the hangar.  I decided it would be helpful to have a list of things I need to be working on.  When I arrived at the hangar, I discovered something about MEK and plastic drinking cups.  It seemed like a good idea at the time to leave the screws soaking in the cup.  I learned that is not the case.  The bottom of the cut melted and the MEK soaked into the bench top.  The screws are now fully imbedded in a plastic disk.  Oh well, I have plenty more.  I used my trusty putty knife to remove the cup bottom and screws from the bench top.  I also installed my white board and added several notes.

While at the hangar I decided to add some additional clecoes to the right side of the rear window at the turtle deck.  By adding some additional clecoes the turtle deck and window appear to fit together better.  

I then began to turn my attention to the stabilator tips.  I ordered the tips kit over a year ago.  I have decided to prepare them for mounting so I can have them painted when the airplane is painted later this spring.  The tips are ABS and are attached to the ends of the stabilator with aluminum mounting plates.  I bent the tabs on the mounting plate and then attached the right mounting plate to the stabilator tip by inserting, but not pulling 2-of the large blind rivets that came with the kit.   I will have to drill additional holes for 2-of the rivets.  I wrapped blued tape along the edge of the stabilator to mark the location of the attachment holes in the tabs.  I test fit the tip.  It looks like it is going to fit just right.

I wrapped tape around the tip and transferred the locations of the holes to the tape on the tip.  I also marked the center of each hole on the tip and drilled one hole to see if it lines up with the hole in the mounting tab.  It lined up just right.  I marked the right tip with a piece of tape inside that says "RIGHT".  I will need to put the same mark on the mounting plate.

Before going to the hangar today I spread a thin layer of PolyGon on the fuel tank sender plate and the forward face of the fuel tank.  Upon returning home I cleaned the Pro-Seal residue from the tank and the plate.  It all come off and left the parts clean.  I will work on them with a ScotchBrite pad before any reassembly takes place.