Replace Lower Banjo Bolt and Fitting

This was a shorter day.  I removed the lower Banjo Bolt and the oil began running out of the crank case.  I put the bolt and fitting back in the opening and cleaned up the oil spill.  I suspended a bucket under the engine and removed the bolt and fitting once more.  I allowed the oil to drain until it stopped.  I used one of the copper washers to install the new replacement fitting from Rotax.  After torquing the fitting to 15 ft lbs I removed the yellow cap from the original fitting and put it on the replacement fitting.  

Section 46 is now complete.

Miscellaneous Wiring and Fuel Drain

This afternoon I worked on different wiring sections.  I installed the ignition wiring harness to the A1 and B1 electrical connectors.  I removed the metal clamp from the Ignition Module A and inserted the exposed shielding of the harness and reinstalled the clamp.  I routed the harness to the rear of the engine and cable tied it in place.  I inserted the wires from the main wiring bundle through the firewall into the female connector and then put the connectors together.  I  also located the ‘forked’ purple wire from the main bundle and routed it back to the Ignition Module.  I removed the A2 and B2 connectors from the metal bracket, removed the seal plugs and inserted the wires into the connectors.  I then reassemble the connectors and reattached them to the metal bracket.  I cable tied the purple wire to the pitot tube.

I located the Oil Pressure wires (red, white/yellow) in the main bundle and crimped on the appropriate spade terminals.  I routed the gray Oil Pressure cable to the rear of the engine and up to the engine shelf.   I cut it to length and attached the appropriate spade terminals and connected them to the red & white/yellow wire spade terminals.  I ran the purple/blue right CHT (cylinder head temperature) wire down to the bottom of the engine, crimped on the terminal and attached it to the  CHT terminal post.  I also ran the purple/yellow left CHT wire and the white/brown Oil Temperature wire down to the bottom of the engine and crimped on the terminals and attached them to the appropriate terminal posts.

I ran the Generator to Rectifier cable to the engine shelf and attached the ends to the Rectifier terminal block.  I also ran the Tachometer cable to the engine shelf and made the necessary attachment to the wires from the main bundle.  I put cable ties on all of the wires to secure them in place.   I attached the ground wire and the starter power cable to the starter.

I cut the rubber hose to make the manifold pressure tubing and installed it from the nipple on the compensating tube assembly to the nipple on the manifold pressure sensor.  I also cut the rubber hose to make the fuel pump drain line.  I straightened the ¼” aluminum tubing and fabricated the drain tube.  I installed the drain line, both rubber and aluminum tubing and installed the pipe clamps, cushioned clamps and cable ties to hold it in place.

Banjo Bolt and Fuel Lines

The BANJO BOLT I had to order arrived this afternoon.  This evening after going flying for 1.3 hours I installed the banjo bolt and fuel lines to the bottom of the clamp block.  I then routed the fuel line to the fuel pressure sensor and attached it to the elbow on the fuel sensor.  I routed the fuel return line to the fitting on the engine shelf and attached it there.  I also routed the fuel line from the fuel pump across the top of the cooing shroud and down to the gascolator and attached it there.  I cable tied the fuel pressure sensor line to the compensating tube assembly and the bracket on the carburetor as shown.  I hope to continue with the installation of the electrical wiring tomorrow.

Torqued Engine Mounting Bolts and Worked on Rectifier

 Today I went to Harbor Freight today and purchased some Crow's foot wrenches.  I was unable to torque the upper engine mount bolts because I was not able to get my  torque wrench in the space to make it work.   I used the formula to calculate the torque settings and proceeded to torque the upper bolts.  

When Arlene got home from work I had her sit in the cockpit.  Using a ratchet with an extension she was able to hold the heads of the lower bolts so I could torque them. 

After torquing the bolts I inserted the cotter pins and bent them into place.

I then began working the installation of the cooling shroud on the rectifier.  I deburred the edges of the shroud after removing the blue vinyl film.  I filled the corners and seams with gray RTV and allowed it to cure.  I removed the rectifier from the engine shelf and match drilled the fins to the holes in the shroud.

I riveted the shroud onto the rectifier and reinstalled the rectifier onto the engine shelf.  In the process of removing the rectifier I had to remove the fuel pressure sensor from the firewall.  I replaced it after reinstalling the rectifier.

Hang Engine on Air Frame

Today was a good day and a bad day.  I twisted the Banjo Bolt in two, but I also installed the engine.

I started by removing the springs and the carburetors one by one.  I removed the fuel line clamps and removed the carburetor flanges and installed the drip pans.  I reinstalled all of the components and reassembled the carburetors.  It was pretty straight forward and went well.  I was able to reinstall the carburetors and torque them to the correct values.

Next I worked on the fuel system.  I removed the Banjo Bolts from the top and bottom of the camp block on the compensating tube assembly.  I removed the hose nipple and put it in a plastic bag for safekeeping.  I also removed the fuel jet from the M8x1x17 Banjo Bolt as instructed.  I loosened the clamp block and rotated it 180^o on the tube.  I reinstalled the M8x1x27 Banjo Bolt and in attempting to torque  it to the correct value I twisted the bolt in half.  Rats!  I ordered an new bolt from  California Power Systems.  It will be here next Tuesday.

I will have to wait until then to install the fuel hoses to the bottom of the clamp block. 

I then started with the installation of the engine.  I started by bolting and drilling the lower engine mounting bolts through the nose gear upper attachment assembly.  I but an AN3 bolt in the hole on the right side and final drilled the hole on the left to 3/8" dia.  I installed the AN6 bolt with the male rubber washer and steel washer and tightened them with a nut.  I then removed theAN3 bolt from the hole on the right and final drilled the hole 3/8" dia.  I installed the correct AN6 bolt in the hole.  I removed the rubber and steel washers from the left bolt.    

I attached a nylon sling to the prop shaft and passed it through the engine mount ring.  

Using a come-along attached to an eye-hook I screwed into the beam in the garage I hoisted the engine off of the work table. 

I pushed the fuselage into the garage.  By adjusting the engine up or down with the hoist I was able to get it to the right elevation to install the mounting bolts and hardware.  I was able to install the bolts without too much trouble.  I will need to have Arlene help me torque the lower bolts.  I will need to have her hold the bolts inside of the cockpit while I work on them from the engine side.  

The engine in now hanging on the air frame.

Install Intake Manifolds and Prep Drip Pans

It was good to get back to work after a long, bitter cold and complicated winter.  I cleaned and swept the garage and pulled the engine building cart out.  I uncovered the engine and found everything to be in great shape.  Just as I left it in January.

I bolted the intake manifolds in place.  I checked to make sure the O rings were properly seated and installed the bolts.  I torqued them to the proper inch pounds. I tightened the spark plugs and installed the leads.  

I reinstalled the ignition module and tightened the bolt and nut.

Next I located the drip pans.  I removed the blue vinyl film and deburred the edges.  I used the countersink tool to prep the holes for the rivets.  After installing the rivets at the corners I mixed some Pre Seal and filled the corners and sealed the seams.