POH Tray and Map Holder

I ordered the optional POH Tray/Map Holder kit from Vans.  The POH Tray mounts under the right side of the instrument panel, below the map box.    The Map Holder mounts on top of the tunnel cover in front of the fuel shut-off valve handle.

 

When the kit arrived I inventoried the parts and the drawings.  I scanned the drawings into a PDF and installed them with the other drawings on my computer and Ipad.

This evening I separated the parts and removed the blue vinyl film.  I prepped the parts for finishing.  I applied a coat of primer to the POH Tray.  I am going to paint the POH Tray to match the cockpit interior.  I am going to wrap the Map Holder with the carbon fiber vinyl I purchased for the instrument panel.  I think that will make it look pretty cool.  Yesterday I ordered 100 6-32x½" pan head black oxide screws to install the instrument panel.  I think the black screws on the carbon fiber wrap will look much better than SS screws.

Finish Baggage Bulkhead Modification

 

This evening I completed the baggage bulkhead modification.  I ordered some corner nutplates from Van's.  They arrived yesterday.  This evening I drilled and clecoed the nutplates to the backup plate.  I final drilled, countersunk the rivet holes.  I also final drilled the screw holes.  I riveted the corner nutplates to the backup plate.  

 

Next I riveted the backup plate to the small section of the baggage bulkhead.  I used some stainless steel 8-32 pan head screws to attach the larger section of the baggage bulkhead to the backup plate.  I set the assembly in place in the RV-12.  It fits.

Modification of the Rear Baggage Bulkhead

 

This evening I continued to work on the rear baggage bulkhead modification.  I prepped the square back-up plate by drilling the holes for the nut plates.  I used the countersink to prep the holes for flush rivets.  As mentioned before, I will need corner nutplates for the top and bottom of the long leg.  I ordered some corner nutplates from Van's this afternoon.  I hope to have them by sometime next week.  I riveted the 6-K1000-8 nutplates to the aft side of the back-up plate.  I will rivet the corner nutplates when they arrive.

 

Next I cut the bulkhead panel into 2-pieces with the bandsaw.  I deburred and cleaned up the edges.  I then clecoed the small corner piece to the backup plate and used a couple of screws to attach the larger portion.  It fits and seems to work.  After I rivet the corner nutplates in place on the backup plate I will rivet the corner piece to the backup plate.  I don't want to do that until the corner nutplates are riveted on.

Modify Rear Baggage Bulkhead and Baggage Floor Inspection Plate

 

This evening I started a modification to the rear baggage bulkhead and inspection plate.  Currently, access to the tailcone area and the area under the rear floor inspection plate is not possible if the fuel tank is in place.  By making this modification to the bulkhead and inspection plate, the fuel tank can remain in place during an inspection.  The bulkhead and inspection plate are modified so that only a portion of each part will remain in place under and behind the fuel tank, and limited access is possible.  I started by making the location of the right center rib on the bottom of the inspection plate.  I will need to not encroach on that space with the back-up plate that will be used to connect the pieces of inspection plate together.

 

I then marked the cut line and the location of the drill holes for the rivets and 8-32 screws that will hold the parts together.  A couple of months ago I ordered a piece of .063" aluminum sheet from Van's for this project.  I laid out the backup plates on the sheet of aluminum.  I used the band saw to cut them out.  A strip of aluminum will be riveted to the section of inspection plate that will be under the fuel tank and the other piece of inspection plate will be attached to the strip with screws backed up by nutplates attached to the bottom of the strip.

 

I clamped the strip of aluminum in place under the inspection panel and proceeded to drill #30 holes.  I then drilled the screw holes with a #19 drill bit and also drilled and countersunk the holes for the flush rivets to hold the nutplates in place.  There are 5-each rivets attaching the aluminum strip to the fuel tank section of the inspection plate and 3-each 8-32 screws attaching the other section of inspection plate to the strip.  After the holes were drilled I used the band saw to cut the inspection plate in half.  I riveted the aluminum strip to the fuel tank half and connected the other portion to it with 3-screws.  It fits perfectly in place.

 

I then began working on the modification of the rear bulkhead.  I cut out the piece of aluminum backup plate that looks like a small framing square.  Following a similar process used on the inspection plate, I marked the cut lines and located the holes on the rear bulkhead.  I clamped the aluminum square to the back of the rear bulkhead and drilled all of the holes with a #30 bit.  Because the top and bottom holes on the long leg of the square is so close to the edge I will need to purchase 2-each corner nutplates to install in these locations.  I will call Van's to see if they have any in stock.  If not I will need to order them elsewhere.  I redrilled the screw holes with a #19 bit.  My next step will be to install the nutplates on the back of the aluminum square and cut the bulkhead panel apart.

Retest Fuel Tank

 

It has been a week since I reassembled the fuel tank.  The Pro-Seal is cured and I will now proceed to retest the tank for leaks.  The leak potential is of course the at the new attachment clips and at the reinstalled sending unit attachment plate.  I reattached the filler tube at the top of the tank with the rubber coupling and compression bands.  I also used a Scotch Brite pad on the inside of the filler neck flange.  I had previously ground down a small blob of weld on the inside of the tube flange and I wanted to make sure the inside of the flange where the cap sits was smooth.  It is.

 

 

I installed the air valve and rubber hose to the fuel return fitting on the bottom of the tank.  I also attached a red balloon to the fuel supply fitting.  This time I made certain that the hose clamp fittings were really tight.  My first tank tests failed because the fitting on the air valve was loose.  I made sure that didn't happen again.  

 

 

For the retest I was not able to just install the fuel cap and be finished.  Since I have drilled vent holes in the fuel cap it is no longer air-tight.  I came up with what I consider to be an ingenious method of sealing the vent cap.  I cut the cuff portion of a nitrile glove I used when I sealed the tank with Pro-Seal.  I put the section of glove over the fuel cap and inserted it into the filler neck flange.  I closed the latch on the cap and proceeded to pressurize the tank.  I marked the time on the balloon – 2:45 pm.

At 5:40 pm I went into the shop to check the balloon.  Sometime during the time I was gone the balloon burst.  I attached a new blue balloon and repressurized the tank.  This time after the balloon was inflated I reduced the tank pressure.  I reduced it enough to decrease the size of the balloon but to leave it fully inflated.  I marked the time on the balloon – 5:45 pm.  I had a meeting at the Stake Center that lasted until after 9:00 pm.  When I returned home I checked on the balloon and it was still inflated.  

I checked the balloon again this morning before leaving for work.  After more than 12 hours it is still inflated.  I am calling that a successful leak test.  I feel confident the tank will hold fuel without leaking.

Reassemble Fuel Tank

 

This evening I mixed up some Pro-Seal and reassembled the fuel tank.  I gathered together the parts and pieces I would need.  I also cleaned all of the surfaces to receive Pro-Seal with MEK.  I then mixed the Pro-Seal and started making a mess.  I also vacuumed out the tank and wiped the inside with MEK to get all of the debris from drilling holes cleaned up and removed.

 

 I first sealed and attached the new clip to the top of the tank to help more fully secure the fuel return line.  In the process I put some Pro-Seal along the tube so it is now glued to the top of the tank along with being held in place with the clips.  I put a smear of Pro-Seal around the rivet.

 

Next I turned my attention to attaching the clip angles added to the tank and the mounting bar on the forward end of the tank.  The clip angles were primed and all ready to go.  I smeared some Pro-Seal on the back of each angle and then clecoed them to the mounting bar.  I was then able to insert the 9-rivets into each of the angles.  I dobbed the rivets in Pro-Seal before inserting them into the holes.  Because this modification breaches the bottom and side of the tank it is critical that the holes and fasteners are sealed properly.  I have seen pictures of the final results of this modification in the RV-12 Forum and the work done by others was not very pretty.  I made an effort to keep the Pro-Seal from getting all over everything, but it is hard stuff to work with and stay clean, let along keep the work clean.

 

After pulling the rivets I used the syringe filled with Pro-Seal to inject a small dab of sealant into the top of each rivet.  I used a popsicle stick to put some sealant over the rivets inside of the tank.  I then used my gloved finger to spread the sealant over and around the rivets.  What a goopy-gooey mess.  There should not be any leaks.  Next I riveted the nutplates back in place on the mounting bar/clip angles.

The final step was to reinstall the sender plate support.  I put a layer of sealant on the back of the sender plate and then put some sealant under the head of each screw.  What a mess.   In a week I will retest the tank for leaks.  After making sure there are no leaks I will repaint the forward end and it will be ready to install in the airplane.  I will then need to attach the filler tube to the turtle deck skin and the fuel tank portion of the build will be complete.